In a chic bar, natto spaghetti.
Kao caao TEXT/KAGEHIRO WATANABE, PHOTO/SHUN TAKEBETwo “caao” locations sit along Maruyama’s back approach road. “caao via,” near Maruyama Koen Station on the Tozai subway line in Nishi 24-chome, is the original shop; “Kao caao,” in Nishi 22-chome, is the second location. Both were originally Italian-focused dining bars, but as of November 2015, the original shop was renewed into an Asian-cuisine restaurant. As a result, the beloved signature dish that’s practically caao’s “face” — the “Natto Carbonara” — is now available only at the second location.
The "Natto Carbonara" came about when the owner-chef, who honed his craft at a top hotel restaurant, received a customer request for "spaghetti with natto." Rather than simply tossing natto into a standard carbonara, this dish is a complete original, layering in Japanese-style seasoning — olive oil, garlic, then a splash of soy sauce lightly charred in the pan. Within the creamy sauce, the natto's faint bitterness adds a pleasant accent.
The "Cold Cheese Fondue" is another caao original. Despite being served chilled, a proprietary recipe keeps the cheese soft, so it's just as delicious no matter the season.
Beyond that, the menu ranges widely, from gyoza to nasi goreng. Every other month, the shop hosts wine dinners featuring a full course meal — making it just as fitting for a proper dinner as for a casual date.
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