A genuine flavor that has walked alongside Sapporo's history.

3 Long-Established Ramen Shops in Sapporo

　Nestled in a corner of Nijo Market, one of Sapporo's popular tourist spots, Darumaken celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. The current owner, the fourth generation to run the shop, has already been standing behind the counter for 30 years. Their simple shoyu ramen has been served since before miso became synonymous with Sapporo ramen. The custom-built noodle-making machine—used since the shop's earliest days to produce their homemade noodles, with the owner saying "if it breaks, we'll close the shop"—is still in active use today.

　"Even if we make it the same way as before, everything from the ingredients to the tools we use has changed. We keep the fundamental method the same to protect the shop's flavor," the owner says. What he finds most difficult, he explains, is satisfying the regular customers who have supported the shop's long history. The teaching passed down from the founder—"There's never a point where you can say what you make is good enough. As long as you're still doing it, you're always training"—continues to support the shop's history to this day. Come taste the flavor of this historic shop, said to be one of the very oldest in Sapporo ramen history.

　Between blocks 4 and 5 of Tanukikoji, if you look toward the north side, you'll spot a charming yellow sign and noren curtain. "We've been in this exact spot for 50 years," says Mr. Tanaka, the second-generation owner of Taiko. According to his father-in-law, the shop's founder, leaving things to other people changes the flavor of a shop. Rather than forcing expansion into multiple locations, the secret to preserving a shop's flavor is having someone trustworthy always present, doing careful, attentive work.

　"The deliciousness of ramen is in its heat. Serve hot things hot." To honor this teaching, the soup is always brought back to a boil in a small pot right before the noodles go in. At Taiko, the unwavering favorite—then and now—is the miso ramen. Some regulars have been coming since the founder's era, while others return after 30 or 40 years away. Hearing those customers say, "The flavor hasn't changed—it's still delicious," is his greatest joy. This unchanging flavor, beloved for half a century, is sure to feel nostalgic even to first-time visitors.

　Right across from the Susukino intersection, positioned at the very front of Shin Ramen Yokocho, Mogura has been in business for 39 years. The shop's name comes from the underground dining alley it originally opened in, which was known at the time as "Mogura Yokocho" ("mogura" meaning "mole"). Its specialty is a classic-style miso ramen loaded with stir-fried bean sprouts and onions, topped with a slice of chashu pork so large it nearly covers the entire bowl.

　"We get plenty of tourists, but after 10 PM, it's mostly people who've been out drinking," the shop says—a reflection of its location at the gateway to Susukino, Sapporo's entertainment district, where all kinds of people pass through. There are times when the shop is so full of travelers from across Asia, America, and Europe that you'd hardly believe you were in Japan, while at the same time, plenty of regulars faithfully stop in for a final bowl even right before closing at 4 or 5 in the morning. The affection this shop has earned from fans over the years is evident in the wall covered edge to edge with celebrity autographs. Be sure to try the flavor of this timeless, celebrated shop, one that will likely keep watching over the future of Sapporo and Susukino for years to come.