Vongole today, coffee tomorrow.

Spaghetti no Mise Jugo-chome

TEXT/REINA ABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

Even after the lunch rush ends, customers keep coming. Some arrive for a late lunch of warm spaghetti; others order coffee and settle in for a while. “Jugo-chome” — marked by a sign of a witch riding a broom — is run by the Takeuchi family, parent and son. The second floor houses a design office, and the previous owner, who built his career as both designer and restaurant owner, still stops by from time to time. The delicate cut-paper artwork of the shop’s exterior hanging on the wall is also his work. The kitchen, open enough to see from the table seats, has the well-worn feel of years of use, yet stays neatly organized, with red-patterned ladles lined up at even intervals against white tile walls.

"Jugo-chome" originally opened as a kissaten in 1972. Around 30 years ago, the previous owner traveled to Europe for an exhibition, and the taste of pasta he had in Italy stayed with him. Back in Sapporo, he spent years researching recipes before eventually renewing the shop as a dedicated spaghetti restaurant. His son, who has run the kitchen for about a decade now, says, "Many regulars come in already knowing exactly what they want, so at first it was a real challenge recreating my father's flavors." Even now, without changing the ingredients or cooking methods, constant small refinements are essential to keep raising the quality. He also tries to see the face of the customer before preparing their order whenever possible, and makes subtle adjustments — lightening the seasoning slightly for older regulars, for instance. Without overdoing it, letting the ingredients' own flavor shine through simply — that philosophy has been carefully passed down.

The pasta is Italian "Barilla" brand. Sauces are never made in advance — the "Vongole Rosso," for instance, is finished quickly with clams from Betsukai, whole tomatoes, and white wine, all in one go. The "Carbonara," with the flavor of Hokkaido bacon shining through, is smooth and rich. Spaghetti made with seasonal ingredients is popular too — rapeseed blossoms and asparagus in spring, baby leaf greens and sea urchin in summer, salmon in autumn, oysters in winter, and so on. Especially recommended is the "Spring Cabbage and Akage Wagyu Corned Beef," which appears each year around April once word comes from the greengrocer — the crisp texture of spring cabbage paired with the rich flavor of 100% corned beef from Akage Wagyu at "Kaminai Farm 21" is irresistible. And when you're full, don't skip the coffee — the shop's original blend has tasted the same since opening day. Even customers returning after 20 years away have said, happily, that the flavor hasn't changed.


Spaghetti no Mise Jugo-chome

Kita 4-jo Nishi 15-chome, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-643-9789
Hours: 10:30 AM–9:00 PM
(L.O. 8:30 PM)
Closed: Sundays