150 years, and still beloved.
Ganso Kaminari-yoke Shinko TEXT/KAGEHIRO WATANABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI※Relocated as of September 2017. Photos and video shown here are from before the move.
The mochi confectionery shop “Ganso Kaminari-yoke Shinko” traces its roots to an original shop of the same name that first opened in Otaru during the Meiji era. What catches your attention first is the name itself. Its origin has several competing theories — one says it comes from timing the rice-steaming process with a burning incense stick every time lightning caused a blackout; another says it’s because the mochi has such a strong, chewy texture that it “won’t leave your mouth even if thunder strikes.”
Unlike the "original" Otaru shop, which specializes solely in daifuku, this Sapporo "Ganso" shop also carries beko mochi, sakura mochi, dango skewers, and suama on display. The lineup shifts by season — the namesake "Kaminari-yoke Shinko," for instance, is a summer-only item, while New Year's mochi is made specially at year's end.
Try the daifuku that started it all, and you'll feel the satisfying heft of a proper mochi in every bite. The filling carries an honest flavor with a hint of saltiness. Made with a method passed down since the Meiji era, using "absolutely nothing unnecessary," this is a flavor that's been beloved for some 150 years. Every step, including milling the rice into flour, is done in-house — you can even spot the mortar and pestle behind the counter. The craftsman's touch shows in small details too, like adjusting the pounding time to match the season, part of what makes the flavor so good. Because of all that hands-on effort, only a limited amount can be made each day, and the shop usually sells out by late morning. Which also means: what you buy here is always freshly pounded mochi. It's the kind of mochi worth waking up early for.
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