Its own sheep farm, direct.

Jingisukan Shepherd’s House “Itadakimasu.”

TEXT/REINA ABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

Loin, fillet, sagari, liver, jingisukan… At first glance, the menu might make you think this is a yakiniku restaurant. But “Itadakimasu.” is a jingisukan restaurant specializing exclusively in Hokkaido lamb. Come nightfall, it fills up with a lively mix of locals and tourists.

Jingisukan is practically a soul food for Hokkaido residents, but the owner had long questioned why the vast majority of it was made with imported meat. Determined to change that, he took the bold step in 2005 of starting his own sheep farm. The farm, in the town of Yuni, keeps a resident veterinarian and now raises more than 500 sheep. The purebred Suffolk lambs raised there have earned such a reputation for quality that even top French restaurants in Tokyo have sought them out. The Susukino shop has its own meat-processing facility attached, breaking down aged carcasses almost daily to serve.

On a well-heated pan, what goes on first isn't beef or pork fat, but lamb fat — said to carry a distinctive sweetness. None of the cuts carry the so-called "gaminess" associated with lamb; instead, each has a light yet rich flavor. About 80% of customers eat it with Alaskan rock salt and cracked pepper. For the loin, they recommend salt and pepper, rubbed with a squeeze of lemon. Every cut is sliced only after an order comes in, and the cutting style is adjusted by cut to suit its texture. A staff member with years in the meat industry explains: "Lamb is smaller than beef or pork, and the way the muscle fibers run is unusual and tricky to work with."
A jingisukan restaurant that started by raising the sheep itself — everywhere you look, an extraordinary passion for flavor shines through.

Jingisukan Shepherd's House "Itadakimasu."

Minami 5-jo Nishi 5-chome-1-6, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-552-4029
Hours: Weekdays 11:30 AM–3:00 AM (next day)
Sun & Holidays 11:30 AM–11:00 PM
Closed: Open daily