Savor the lamb's rich flavor, then finish light.

Sumiyaki Jingisukan Yamaka

TEXT/KAGEHIRO WATANABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

Tucked in a corner of Susukino, the ultra-competitive jingisukan district, this shop occupies a former pawnshop — traces of its past remain, from an impressive storehouse door inside to a Taisho-era clerk’s happi coat on display. Perhaps because of that history, the shop carries a warm, welcoming atmosphere, and many customers are said to linger for a long while. The number of women dining solo has reportedly been increasing too.

If it's your first visit, the "Assortment" is the way to go — a set of hand-cut raw lamb, lamb shoulder loin, and mutton shoulder loin, so you can find your favorite and order more of it. The sirloin, cut from carcasses broken down in-house, is also highly recommended — only about five servings are available per day. Tender and mild, it's delicious with just 10 seconds of grilling per side. It tends to sell out shortly after opening, but reservations are accepted, so anyone interested should call ahead.

For jingisukan, choose between the house sauce or salt and pepper. The sauce is lightly sweet and light in texture, easy on the stomach. To finish off your meal, try the "Agari Ramen" — noodles in a broth made from the sauce with added dashi. It's the most popular order among customers, and the special thin noodles go down easily even after a full meal of lamb. Fans of jingisukan should also try the lamb sausage and bacon — a slightly different kind of richness from what you're used to, and easy to get hooked on. The gyoza-like "Crispy Fried Lamb" is also available for purchase through the shop's website, perfect for when you're too full to order it here. Once you've tasted this shop's full range of lamb dishes, you'll surely come to appreciate the distinct flavor of lamb, so different from beef or pork.

Sumiyaki Jingisukan Yamaka

Minami 6-jo Nishi 4-chome-1, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-561-3577
Hours: 5:00 PM–11:00 PM
Closed: First Sunday of the month
www.jingisukan-yamaka.com