A hidden gem for authentic Italian.

Sumiyaki Griglia & Bar CASBA

TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

It might sound a little rude to say “a shop like this, in a place like this” — but one minute on foot from Nango 13-chome station on the Tozai subway line, on the first floor of a mixed-use building sandwiched between a residential area and a shopping street, Sumiyaki Griglia & Bar CASBA is a hidden trattoria serving authentic Italian food. Owner-chef Iga opened the shop in Shiroishi-ku, a neighborhood he feels deeply connected to. Pass through the striking round-stone-stacked gate and open the door, and you’ll find an open kitchen partitioned by large panes of glass. A solid single-slab counter and luxurious interior create a space unlike anything in everyday life.

The food, of course, is genuinely authentic. The house-proud pizza, pasta, and gnocchi are all made from scratch, starting with kneading the dough. The tagliatelle with braised pork and beans is a rustic dish: flat noodles, similar to kishimen, served with pork and colorful beans simmered until meltingly tender. The sauce clings perfectly to the pasta, letting the ingredients' natural flavor shine through. The herb-grilled lamb sears premium lamb shoulder briefly over charcoal, finished simply with rock salt and three kinds of herbs. There's none of lamb's characteristic gaminess — just an elegant flavor. Next, the owner says, comes dessert: traditional Italian dolci made with ricotta cheese. The cassata, with cream cheese and dried fruit, is a curious dessert somewhere between ice cream and cheesecake.

The drink selection is generous and reasonably priced, regardless of country or type. Ferrari sparkling wine, both by the glass and bottle, comes at a surprisingly low price. "I only serve what I think is genuinely good," says Iga, who personally tastes and selects everything on the list. A luxurious interior, reasonably priced yet authentic food and drink — Iga's wish for guests to feel just a little bit richer shows through in every detail.

Sumiyaki Griglia & Bar CASBA

1F Stonehill 13, Hongo-dori 13-chome 1-3, Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-863-3718
Hours: 6:00 PM–3:00 AM (L.O. 2:00 AM)
Closed: 3rd Monday of the month www6.ocn.ne.jp/~casba/