A place overflowing with service — in the decor and in the food.
Tetchan TEXT/KAGEHIRO WATANABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIOld menko cards, masks, daruma dolls, records — covering every inch of the walls. Just this alone makes “Tetchan” an izakaya you won’t soon forget. The interior originally leaned into a seafood-restaurant look, with a boat, a tairyo-bata fishing flag, and an anchor on display — but somewhere along the way, it filled up with Showa-era memorabilia instead. It all started because owner Abe felt too shy making eye contact with customers across the counter, so he began pasting up menus and magazine clippings. He’s shy enough that a regular once told him, “after 20 years coming here, this is the first time I’ve actually seen your face.” But his desire to make customers happy runs deep — it’s also why he made funamori (boat-shaped seafood platters) the shop’s signature dish: he simply wants people to eat as much as possible.
During our visit, the octopus leg being plated was practically still moving on the cutting board — proof of just how fresh the ingredients are. A funamori platter typically features around 20 to 25 different items. The selection shifts with the ocean's condition and the season, and the shop actively sources unusual fish too, "so customers don't get bored." The portions are generous as well — the funamori pictured here serves two, and it's substantial. In the past, customers were required to order one funamori per person, but as requests changed, the policy shifted to ordering only as much as you want to eat. If you still can't finish it all, the shop will happily stir-fry the leftover seafood and serve it again. Enjoying it as a temaki sushi set is also recommended.
The otoshi (starter) is king crab and shrimp — distinctly Hokkaido from the very first bite. The menu goes on to include jingisukan, ikura don, and imobata (potatoes with butter), plus gokko-jiru, a Hokkaido regional dish made with sculpin fish. Around New Year's, the shop has even served venison, butchered in-house. You can experience the full range of Hokkaido flavor here alone — and all at reasonable prices. Whether you're visiting Hokkaido or a local, a trip to this shop is sure to leave you happy and full. This was a shop overflowing with that kind of hospitality.
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