Even the curry is exquisite—now that's real indulgence.
Curry from Restaurants That Aren’t Curry Specialists TEXT/REINA ABE, KAGEHIRO WATANABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIWhen people think of Sapporo, soup curry usually comes to mind—but this time we’re spotlighting “roux curry” (said to be a Hokkaido dialect term for the classic Japanese curry). What’s more, none of the three shops featured here specialize in curry at all. Precisely because of that, we got to hear fascinating stories—both about how each place ended up serving curry, and about their own particular approach to it. Of course, the flavor holds its own against any curry specialist, too. Whether you love curry, or simply enjoy a good café or bar, here are three excellent-value Sapporo spots where you can savor both.
A curry with a quarter-century of flavor built in.
Cafe Escher
Owner Mr. Kimura says he was stunned to overhear a customer on the phone say, “I'll be waiting at the usual curry place.” True to its name, “Cafe” Escher is a proper coffee shop serving its own French-roast original blend—but the curry is so good that customers have started calling it a curry shop instead. Incidentally, the shop's name comes from the painter Escher. Like one of Escher's optical illusion artworks, the building housing the café has an oddly complex structure—a relic of anti-theft measures built for the securities company that once occupied the space. The café itself actually sits inside what used to be the building's vault; the thick metal door still stands as proof.
Mr. Kimura trained at a specialty coffee shop before going independent. When it comes to curry, though, he's entirely self-taught, saying, “I don't know how the professionals cut corners.” Onions, the key to the dish's rich sweetness, are slow-cooked for five hours—25 kilograms at a time. Both the katsu and other fried items are cooked to order. The seasoning shifts a little with the seasons too—spicier in summer, richer in winter—adjusted subtly for hot days and humid days alike. It's this refusal to cut corners that surely leads to such exceptional flavor. On top of that, there's the roux itself, which has been continuously topped up and replenished since the café first opened in 1989. People often say yesterday's curry tastes even better—but at Escher, what you're tasting is a quarter-century's worth of accumulated flavor.
Mr. Kimura's pick for the most popular dish is the “eggplant and ground meat curry.” Other highlights include a curry with butter-sautéed scallops and fried broccoli, which sells especially well on hot days, and a curry made with handmade croquettes and three kinds of mushrooms—every item on the menu is tempting, and it's easy to find yourself coming back again and again. And it's not just for the curry, either. Here, you can soak in the building's history, savor the curry, and enjoy a fine cup of coffee, all at once. It's surely that layered appeal that keeps so many customers coming back.

カフェ エッシャー
札幌市中央区北2条西3丁目1-26 札幌第一ビル B1F
TEL.011-231-4430
Hours: Mon–Fri 11:30am–4:00pm
(Last order 3:30pm)
Sat 12:00pm–3:00pm
(Last order 2:15pm)
Closed: Sundays and holidays
Rich flavor from a stone storehouse and waterless curry.
Cafe & Bar ROGA
Behind Sapporo Station stands an old stone storehouse. Preserving the character of its 100-year-old structure, it opened as a café bar in 2010. People now come here to meet friends, satisfy their hunger, or simply look for inspiration. Owner Mr. Ota once lived in Paraguay working as a care and welfare specialist; “ROGA” means “home” in the local Guarani language. As it turns out, the building was originally the warehouse for his family's own business, “Toyo Camera House”—a beloved neighborhood photo shop that operated for more than 50 years before closing its doors in 2013. Old cash registers and iron kettles that had been resting inside the stone storehouse, along with a new wood stove Mr. Ota insisted on installing, now lend a quiet presence to the calm, relaxed space.
ROGA's signature curry rice is a “waterless curry,” made using only the natural moisture from the ingredients themselves. Plenty of onions are sautéed, then simmered for two full days. The smooth, additive-free roux delivers a gentle tang of tomato followed by a pleasantly sharp kick of spice, while the chicken practically falls apart in your mouth. The flavor is refreshing yet deep, and the spoon just keeps moving. The macaroni salad that comes with the lunch set pairs surprisingly perfectly with the curry rice. Meanwhile, once the roux is simmered down further and thickens up, it becomes the base for a curry doria. Originally served only as a staff meal, it was such a hit after being added to the party menu that it's now become one of the shop's most popular evening dishes.
What Mr. Ota is aiming for is to “create a living bulletin board.” In an age overflowing with information online, his desire to create a space where people can connect directly was the spark behind opening the shop. That's why the shop hosts such a wide variety of events—photo exhibitions, live music, talk events, all-night “ROGA” gatherings, and more—making it an appealing venue for turning ideas into reality. And of course, as a café bar near the station, it's a joy that the menu is packed with everything from rice dishes to snacks, desserts, and drinks. A space as relaxing as home, and a curry rice with a flavor all its own—inside this old, nostalgic stone storehouse, a fresh sensibility and spark of inspiration have found a home.

Cafe&Bar ROGA
札幌市北区北7条西5丁目5
TEL.011-299-7559
Hours: 11:30am–11:00pm
(Last order: food 10:00pm, drinks 10:30pm)
Closed: Sundays, holidays, and the third Monday of the month
A bar where you can finish the night with proper curry or ramen.
Wine and Bar Yakouchu
No need to head to a second spot for a late-night bite to finish the evening—that's what “Yakouchu” is for. Though its name is sometimes mistaken for that of a snack bar, it's actually a wine bar. Bar names are usually in Western script, but owner Mr. Nakamoto disliked that convention and deliberately chose a Japanese name instead. The fact that curry is on the menu may well be another expression of his desire not to run an ordinary, run-of-the-mill establishment. The interior has the chic look you'd expect from a bar, but the quietly placed antique books, clocks, and telephone reflect Mr. Nakamoto's wish to make the space “feel like someone's home.” The generous spacing between tables and chairs is also a thoughtful touch, meant to let customers relax as though they were at home.
The bar opened in 2000, and curry has been on the menu since day one. The goal was to evoke the feel of a hotel restaurant. When you order, a steaming curry arrives in a metal dish, and its enticing aroma drifts through the room—it's no surprise that once one customer orders it, others soon follow suit. Of course, the aroma isn't the only draw. The key to the flavor is a sofrito of finely chopped celery, carrot, and onion, sautéed together. Thanks to the generous amount of vegetables, the curry has a nice kick without being harsh—gentle and well-rounded instead. Rice normally comes with the curry, but bread is also available, so choose whichever pairs best with your drink.
This bar even serves ramen—and with its own noodles, specially made to order by a local noodle maker. Some customers call it “garlic ramen” for its bold, rich flavor, making it the perfect way to cap off a night of drinking. Which raises the question: what should you drink beforehand? Naturally, since it's a “Wine and Bar,” wine is the recommendation. Because the bar sources its wine without going through a liquor wholesaler, you can enjoy better bottles than the price would suggest. When we asked Mr. Nakamoto what pairs best with the curry, he began with “Water is best, honestly…” before adding, “but if I had to pick, I'd say scotch”—particularly Islay single malts like Bowmore, whose distinctive aroma he says complements curry beautifully. Why not visit Yakouchu for a slow drink while looking forward to a late-night curry or bowl of ramen—a little indulgence all its own?
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