Filling a 13-year gap with traditional miso ramen.

Itomatsu

TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

Last summer, old-school fans of Sapporo ramen were abuzz with the news that “the legendary Itomatsu is coming back.” The original “Itomatsu,” which first opened about 50 years ago, helped lay the foundation of Sapporo miso ramen alongside shops like “Aji no Sanpei,” and was beloved by locals. In 1999, its founder passed away and the shop closed, much to everyone’s regret. As calls for its revival grew, the founder’s sister — who had run the front of house — lent her support, and in August 2013 the current owner, Mr. Mori, raised the noren once again as the second-generation “Itomatsu.”

Opinions among old-timers who know Itomatsu better than owner Mori himself vary widely — "that's the Itomatsu taste," "it's better than before," "it's completely different." But more than six months after opening, Mori was told "the shop is starting to smell like Itomatsu," and it was then he felt he'd gotten a little closer to his predecessor. The "Miso Ramen," arguably the shop that pioneered Sapporo miso ramen, is 700 yen. The blended miso, handed down directly from the previous owner's wife, is carefully kneaded by hand according to her exact teachings. The broth blends pork bone and chicken carcass with bonito and kelp — rich yet light. It's a bowl that lets you taste the history of Sapporo miso ramen.

Itomatsu

Tanukikoji 6-chome, Minami 3-jo Nishi 6-chome, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-221-1330
Hours: 11:00 AM–11:00 PM
※Subject to change
Closed: Tuesdays
※If a Tuesday falls on a public holiday, closed the following Wednesday instead
www.itomatsu.com/

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