Regulars order "shoyu"; tourists order "miso."
Ittetsu TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIThis year marks 18 years since “Ittetsu” first opened its doors. While its ramen is well known, in the evenings it’s just as popular as an izakaya serving home-style dishes. Before this restaurant opened, a ramen shop had operated in this same spot, and Tetsuichi Bessho was a regular there. After the owner he affectionately called “Oyaji” passed away, Bessho thought, “I want to taste that ramen one more time,” and decided to open his own ramen shop in that very same location. He was never taught the recipe directly, but the old master’s dedication and spirit have been faithfully carried on.
Locals order shoyu ramen, surprisingly. Even before the idea that "Sapporo ramen means miso" took hold, Oyaji's tonkotsu shoyu ramen had already built a loyal following. Even now, more than 60 years after the shop's predecessor first opened, traces of that era remain. It overturns expectations for shoyu ramen: a cloudy, straightforwardly bold pork-bone broth. Rich in flavor, yet smooth on the palate — never heavy. The noodles, made with fewer eggs than usual, let the natural sweetness of the wheat shine through. Served in a modestly sized bowl, this bowl of ramen concentrates the owner's dedication and heartfelt intention.
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