A jewel of a bowl, calculated to perfection.
Ohsho Ramen TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHITucked along a bypass road, beneath the overpass of the expressway. Not exactly a prime location, yet this long-established ramen shop has hung its noren here for years. Owner Takahashi left the corporate world and taught himself ramen-making before opening the shop, which he now runs together with his son. Their guiding philosophy: “ramen you can still eat tomorrow.” In the 26 years since opening, he says it took a full 10 years to reach a bowl he was satisfied with. Even now, he keeps refining it little by little, evolving the flavor with the times — while holding firm to one rule: never serve anything he wouldn’t want to eat himself.
Char Siu Men (in your choice of flavor), 800 yen, might be the truest expression of Takahashi's craft. With nothing but scallions and char siu as toppings, it's a bold, minimal bowl that lets the char siu itself shine. The broth is built on a chicken-carcass base with pork bone and generous amounts of coarsely shaved bonito, using flavor-neutral confectionery-grade lard. The pale pink pork loin char siu gets one final pass of heat when added to the broth, soaking up the soup's flavor right as it's served. The more you chew, the more the meat's natural sweetness and umami come through. Light, yet with a lingering richness that keeps pulling you back — a truly calculated bowl of ramen.
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