Edomae sushi hidden in a residential neighborhood.
Wakana Sushi TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIFive minutes on foot from Minami-Hiraoka subway station. Past a narrow street winding through a residential area, beneath the overpass — follow the yellow sign, and you’ll find Wakana Sushi tucked quietly into a back alley. Owner Kazuo Asada moved to Tokyo at 19 and trained as an itamae chef in Tsukiji, Ginza, and Osaka, before taking over his parents’ land at age 45 to open this shop, which he now runs together with his wife. “I can’t believe I’ve been doing this here for nearly 30 years,” Asada says proudly. “It was tough at first,” his wife adds. Back then the shop was surrounded by houses and apartments, and customers trickled in only occasionally. Yet over time, people began coming not just from the neighborhood but from far away too. This year marks the shop’s 28th anniversary — a genuine long-established sushi restaurant.
Among the many nigiri on offer, the anago (conger eel) at 280 yen a piece and the battera (pressed mackerel sushi) at 630 yen are the shop's pride. When it opened, Edomae-style anago wasn't yet well known in Hokkaido, but even among the few early customers, some kept returning specifically for the anago and battera. Asada says he was glad his rigorously trained Edomae technique was recognized. "I keep saying I want to quit, but then there are people who come all this way just to eat this," he laughs. Regulars, no doubt, fall for his bright personality just as much as the food.
The special chumaki (medium roll) at 520 yen is surprisingly large and hearty for a "medium" roll. Asada even demonstrates his rolling technique, making sure the egg lands right in the center. The filling is simple — egg, anago — nothing flashy, but the flavor holds together beautifully, a dish full of quiet craftsmanship. The seasonal matsuzushi (10-piece nigiri set) is 1,890 yen. His wife's home cooking is popular too, with some fans ordering chawanmushi or simmered fish as something to sip sake alongside. Regulars gather at the counter around the sake-loving owner, and the shop is never without laughter. Delicate Edomae sushi served up by a warm, big-hearted owner — a wonderful little shop hidden deep in a residential neighborhood.
Menu
[Nigiri Sets]
■ Matsu (10 pieces) 1,890 yen
■ Take (9 pieces) 1,360 yen
■ Ume (8 pieces) 1,050 yen
[À la carte]
Egg, squid, octopus, horse mackerel, gizzard shad
Cured mackerel, yellowtail, conger eel
Flounder, salmon roe, surf clam, medium fatty tuna
Abalone, sea urchin and more from 80 yen/piece
[Sushi Rolls]
■ Negitoro roll (3 pieces) 1,570 yen
■ Natto roll (3 pieces) 520 yen
■ Kanpyo roll (3 pieces) 520 yen
■ Special futomaki 840 yen
■ Special chumaki 520 yen and more
[Rice Bowls & Chirashi]
■ Tekka-don (fatty tuna) 2,200 yen
■ Premium chirashi 1,360 yen and more
※Prices as of Jan 28.
Delivery available. Please call for details.
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