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Experience the elegance and spirit of Japanese cuisine.

Kassai Nishiwaki

TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

You arrive after passing through a dazzling stretch of neon signs. Duck under the noren curtain, and a clean, pale-wood counter welcomes you. Head chef Katsuyuki Nishiwaki was born in Osaka. After graduating from a local culinary school, he trained as an itamae chef at a kappo restaurant in Osaka, then moved to Hokkaido to follow a mentor he admired. He went on to hone his skills at Japanese restaurants around Susukino before opening this shop. Since the word ‘kappo’ can feel intimidatingly formal, he combined it with the character ‘sai,’ meaning brilliance or splendor, to create the name ‘Kassai.’ It carries his wish to be a shop where guests can enjoy authentic Japanese cuisine at reasonable prices — and leave with an ovation of applause, as the name itself suggests.

The butter-simmered potatoes use Hokkaido-grown Meakin potatoes, gently steamed in a mixture of butter, sugar, and soy sauce. A refined sweetness comes first, followed by a subtle hint of butter — an elegant, nostalgic flavor. The soy-grilled true cod milt is a standout dish: fresh milt lightly coated in flour, quickly seasoned with soy sauce, and grilled to a golden brown. A crisp bite gives way to the milt's natural sweetness. And the miso-grilled Saroma oysters with Shimonita green onions, with their appetizing aroma of toasted miso, are a lavish dish of house-made miso grilled together with fresh oysters.

Serving seasonal ingredients using the method that brings out their very best flavor — that is the belief chef Nishiwaki holds to. Every dish, built from well-matched ingredients, is kept utterly simple, stripped of anything unnecessary so the true quality of the ingredients can shine through. What he values most is building a foundation of flavor through careful preparation; it's precisely because of this meticulous groundwork that even simple cooking results in a beautifully finished dish. The glass case, stocked with ingredients sourced from across the country, displays fresh seafood alongside items rarely seen in Hokkaido, such as Kyoto carrots and beni-shigure daikon radish — simply gazing at the case is a pleasure in itself. He wants every guest to leave with a smile. There's something wonderfully comforting in the gap between the craftsman's focused eyes as he faces his ingredients and the gentle smile he offers his guests. Sitting alone at the counter, naming your budget and preference for a single drink — this is a shop for that kind of grown-up indulgence.

Kassai Nishiwaki

N Grande Building 2F, Minami 5-jo Nishi 3-chome 8, Chuo-ku, Sapporo (formerly N.04 Green Building)
TEL.011-511-3903
Hours: 5:30 PM–11:30 PM L.O.
(Fri, Sat: L.O. 1:00 AM)
Closed: Sundays and holidays
hi-town.com/nishiwaki/