Off to Singapore, the "hawker nation."

Kopitiam

TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHI

Standing shoulder to shoulder with Singapore Shrimp Noodles, Kopitiam is the original — and arguably the only — Singapore restaurant in Sapporo. Its uniquely eccentric look has become a genuine symbol of the Tanukikoji shopping arcade. True to its belief in creating a sense of “the extraordinary,” the interior is bold and distinctive: local posters lit up in vivid red, an assortment of miscellaneous goods scattered about with careless charm. The lively, clattering interior carries the scent of unique spices drifting through the air. Maybe it’s just me, but even the Japanese staff prepping food behind the counter somehow sound like they’re speaking a foreign language.

The food is of course authentic — the spices, it's said, are sourced on trips to Singapore itself, and each dish reflects careful attention to detail. The most popular dish, bak kut teh (980 yen), is a medicinal-style dish of bone-in pork simmered in a soup with 13 kinds of ingredients, including star anise, jujube, goji berries, and cinnamon. Sweetness comes first, followed by the aroma of the spices, and the overall flavor is light and mild. The pork falls apart tender, and the medicinal broth seeps gently through your whole body. The satay (4 skewers, 550 yen) — chicken or mutton on skewers — is very much like Japanese yakitori, and back in Singapore, it's eaten as a casual snack. A wide range of Singaporean beers, including Tiger, are also available.

Singapore is an exotic country where Chinese culture as a base intricately intertwines with Malaysian and British influences. Kopitiam lets you experience that entire atmosphere in one place. The shop was even chosen as a filming location for the movie "The Detective Is in the Bar 2: Susukino Grand Crossing," starring Yo Oizumi, and appears in the film. After enjoying a meal and Singaporean beer at Kopitiam, why not finish things off with shrimp noodles next door at Singapore Shrimp Noodles? How about a full Singaporean feast in the Tanukikoji shopping arcade?

Kopitiam

Minami 3-jo Nishi 7-chome 5, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
TEL.011-219-7773
Hours: 5:30 PM–2:00 AM
Closed: Open daily (closed New Year's holidays)