Generous portions, full satisfaction.
Bokkai Hanten TEXT/REINA ABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIThe sound of napa cabbage being chopped. The sizzle of ingredients hitting hot oil. The clink of a ladle against the wok. Pleasant kitchen sounds fill the air. “Bokkai Hanten” is a Chinese restaurant now in its 16th year, run by chef-owner Rin Chusho and his wife, together with Ms. Yamamichi, who handles the floor. Rin began training as a chef at age 16, came to Japan in 1995, and honed his craft at a Chinese restaurant in Susukino before eventually going independent to open Bokkai Hanten. He holds China’s national “Tokkyu Chushi Toku-2-kyu” certification, a mark of a true veteran. With swift, practiced movements, he moves the gleaming black wok and ingredients with total ease.
Chinese cuisine broadly divides into Beijing, Shanghai, Sichuan, and Cantonese styles, each with its own origins and flavor profiles. Rin can prepare any of them, but here he adapts the dishes for Japanese tastes — the menu runs to an impressive 167 items. Item number 167, "Shrimp and Broccoli Stir-Fried in XO Sauce," stands out for its simple, straightforward deliciousness — two quickly stir-fried ingredients with just the right bite, sealing in the umami of the seafood. The "Shrimp Ankake Yakisoba," crisp noodles topped with plump shrimp and a gently salted thick sauce, is a classic among classics. The noodles come in three styles — pan-fried, boiled, or deep-fried — with the recommendation being the half-fried version, which keeps a bit of softness intact.
The rice and vegetables are all Hokkaido-grown. Every ingredient is chosen personally by Rin, always affordable and fresh. Reasonably priced, quick, generously portioned, and reliably delicious — it's no surprise the shop sees a steady stream of customers. Office workers at lunch on weekdays, students in the evening, families on weekends — many appear to be regulars, and at one point Ms. Yamamichi calls out to a man seated alone, "the usual, right?" Orders seem to come together effortlessly into piping-hot dishes, but behind every step — the prepping of ingredients, the precise timing over the flame — lies a quiet accumulation of skill and care. Rin, who says he loves Hokkaido dearly, will surely keep filling this neighborhood with delicious Chinese food for years to come.
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