Getting ahead of Japan's four seasons, the Italian way.

Wine Dining Sagan

The lineup of appetizers on the menu updates constantly as seasonal ingredients come in. The "Chef's Selection of 6 Appetizers" gathers Sagan's staples alongside seasonal creations made according to the chef's mood. On this particular day, it included escabeche of Shizuoka-caught round herring and a baked parcel of snap peas with two kinds of cheese — impossible to decide what to try first. A hidden favorite, the "Roast Duck Breast," uses Hungarian duck, prized for its especially gamey, authentic flavor. The duck, steam-fried in a pan, is served with sautéed rapeseed blossoms and Amera high-sugar tomatoes, filling the air with a fragrant aroma. Through each plate, the couple hopes to introduce guests to new ways of enjoying and tasting familiar ingredients.

Beside the kitchen stands a wine cellar reaching to the ceiling. The thick wine list, covering more than 200 varieties, speaks to that dedication. It's a lineup that wine connoisseurs will find irresistible, but don't worry if you're not one of them — the glass wine selection is extensive too, and telling staff your preferences will get you a perfect pour. Order the "Today's Tasting Set" for a chance to sample three wines in small glasses, tasting-style. Sagan isn't fussy about the old rule of white with fish, red with meat — the philosophy here is to freely enjoy whatever you're in the mood for. More than a decade has passed since opening in 2004, and the couple laughs that "the rule is, we don't interfere in each other's cooking or wine choices" — a reflection of the deep trust they have in each other's skills. That same calm, easy atmosphere the two of them share fills the restaurant. Down a narrow side street in Tanukikoji 1-chome, drawn in by the light spilling from the window, we found a place worth stopping by on a whim.