Tonight again, kushikatsu in one hand, a cup of sake in the other.
Kushikatsu Senri TEXT/YUSUKE TOKOSHIMA, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIHead toward Susukino along the stretch between Tanukikoji 5-chome and 6-chome, and a softly glowing white sign comes into view. Founded in 1955, Kushikatsu Senri is a distinguished shop that still carries the air of an old-school tavern. Unlike the Kansai-style kushikatsu dipped in sauce, this is closer to the fried dishes of an old-fashioned deli. The interior evokes a working-class diner from old Tokyo, and even on weekdays the counter fills with office workers drawn in by that homey warmth.
Owner Abe, the third generation to run the shop, inherited his frying technique from his predecessor over 20 years ago. Press too hard and it fails; go too soft and it fails too — coating the skewers takes years of experience and feel. "I think the panko stood up nicely and fried up well," he says, deftly preparing a plate of kushikatsu (two skewers). The pork used is herb-fed, from Makkari in Hokkaido — tender and never heavy, ideal for frying. The oil, the lifeblood of any kushikatsu, is carefully selected canola rapeseed oil, known for a crisp, light finish. Adjusting the temperature according to the ingredient, and changing the oil frequently, are further secrets behind the flavor.
Beyond skewers, there's tempura and other fried dishes too. The menu isn't large, but everything is reasonably priced. Each dish is prepared with care, and the love for the food shows. Side dishes like vinegared salads and sashimi all pair naturally with fried food. The yudofu, served in a light, clean broth, is the perfect palate cleanser between fried bites. Many customers come specifically for the house-made shime-saba (cured mackerel), with its subtle, expertly judged tang.
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