A time and place that never changes.
ZAZI TEXT/REINA ABE, PHOTO/NAOKO TAKAHASHIOn a slightly chilly day, stew is what you crave. When the mood strikes downtown, many people think of “ZAZI” first. The shop opened in 1976, then moved one block south in 1981 to its current spot near Tanukikoji. In the ever-changing Odori-Susukino district, it has kept the same unchanged look for more than 30 years. Among the many paintings, posters, and photographs hanging on the walls are works by acquaintances of owner Moriguchi, as well as pieces sent by a friend living in Paris — the space has the feel of an unpretentious little gallery.
Wanting something you couldn't find elsewhere, the shop added stew to the menu, available in white or brown roux. The piping hot "Eggplant and Meat-Cheese Stew," served in an enamel pot, has a smooth, gentle taste. Order it as a set, and it comes with a round, softly baked bread and a drink. Coffee and cola are options, but the oddly intriguing choice is the "Power Drink" — a crisp, refreshing blend of orange concentrate, lemon, and milk. The name reportedly comes from its original pairing with the "Power Lunch," and that slight mismatch with ZAZI's quiet, calm atmosphere only adds to its appeal. The handmade cookies, cakes, spaghetti, and parfaits all have their own devoted fans too. On this visit, a fresh batch of cookies had just come out of the oven.
Nobody's quite sure how many generations of enamel pots the shop has gone through by now. Pale yellow and white pot bottoms line up, hanging above the counter. The glossy, deep-brown tables and chairs have been replenished bit by bit over the years, always the same style. The worn armrests of the chairs carry a sense of all that accumulated time.
Chopping onions, checking the roux, slicing cake. Without rushing through the years, offering delicious food and a comfortable place to be — that's the everyday rhythm of ZAZI, one that never stops.
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